Common causes of diarrhoea, especially in puppies, are overfeeding, a sudden change in diet or a chill. Cut back food quantities and try feeding boiled fish or poultry mixed with rice. Make sure your Bulldog has access to plenty of fresh water, as one of the side-effects of serious diarrhoea is dehydration.
As diarrhoea is also a symptom of a number of other diseases and conditions, it is wise to consult your vet if the problem persists. Read the following article, to know when to consult your veterinearian, in case of diarrhea and vomiting.
Choosing a name for your new Bulldog puppy is an important decision. The dog name you choose says as much about you as it does about your dog. It shows how you view your bulldog and what your relationship is with him/her, so it is important to use a dog name that conveys the proper image. Take some time in choosing a name, as this name will be used to relate to the dog for the rest of his or her life, i.e. well over 30,000 times. When selecting your bulldog’s name, keep the following in mind:
Check the hidden meanings
Some names may sound great, be unique and seem like the perfect of all dog names at first sight, but have a hidden meaning or negative connotation. Be sure when you look through lists of dog names and books with puppy names to check the meaning of that name.
Avoid names that sound like commands
Do not choose a name that sounds like a common command. Pets rely on sounds and intonation rather than on the actual meaning of a word when trying to understand what we are communicating to them. As a result, names like ‘Kit,’ ‘Rum,’ ‘Fay,’ ‘Steel,’ or ‘Joe’ may be easily confused with ’sit,’ ‘come,’ ’stay,’ ‘heel,’ or ‘no!’ Avoiding ’sound-alike’ names will increase the effectiviness of the communication between you and your pet. Moreover, puppies normally have a very short attention span, so never use the name together with a command, as in “Belle - No!” or your dog will become confused, not understanding what you want him to do. So when a correction is called for, just say “No”.
Por ejemplo, cada noche antes que el perro coma (pero luego que le has puesto el plato con comida), revisa sus orejas, mirando y tocándolas con tus dedos. Hazlo cada noche hasta que el perro deje de ”quejarse” por ello. Continúa haciendolo y siempre sabrás si los oÃdos de tu perro están bien.
El cepillado es importante, especialmente para los perros de doble pelaje o de pelo largo cuando comienzan a cambiar el pelo. Un pequeño esfuerzo ahora para hacer que tu perro disfrute del cepillado, te ahorrará muchos problemas más adelante, cuando comienze a tirar, y tirar, y tirar pelo.
No cometas el tÃpico error de muchos dueños cuando sus perros muestran miedo o agresión al conocer extraños. No los sobreprotejas, ni les digas cosas como “ya… tranquilo”, “está bien…”. Esto solo sirve para reforzar el comportamiento, y los anima a que sigan teniendo miedo o que continúen gruñendo. En su lugar, sólo di “No!” tajantemente, y felicÃtalo cuando se detenga. FelicÃtalo más todavÃa cuando permita que le acaricien la cabeza. Si comienza a gruñir o a retroceder nuevamente, di “No!”. Se un poco más suave con el “no” cuando el perro exhiba miedo, pero sà se firme. Con un perro que gruñe, se mucho más enfático y duro con tu “no!”.
The bulldog is not allowed in the house.
Okay, the bulldog is allowed in the house, but only in certain rooms.
The bulldog is allowed in all rooms, but has to stay off the furniture.
The bulldog can get on the old furniture only.
Fine, the bulldog is allowed on all the furniture, but is not allowed to sleep with the humans on the bed.
Okay, the bulldog is allowed on the bed, but only by invitation.
The bulldog can sleep on the bed whenever he wants, but not under the covers.
The bulldog can sleep under the covers by invitation only
The bulldog can sleep under the covers every night.
Humans must ask permission to sleep under the covers with the bulldog.
Si bien algunos signos de estres son difÃciles de reconocer, otros son muy notorios. Algunos signos se relacionan con un aumento de la actividad, como en estres agudo - el cuerpo y la mente se ponen en “alerta roja”. Otros signos están relacionados con una disminución de la actividad, o con “apagarse” - en respuesta al estres crónico. Estas diferencias se deben a cambios quÃmicos que ocurren en el cerebro del perro.
Es importante notar que algunos de los signos listados a continuación pueden ser causados por problemas de salud, no necesariam
Once she has been successfully mated, there is little need to change any of your bitch’s routine for the first four to five weeks of pregnancy. Any variation in her routine may be a cause of stress, which in turn may be detrimental to the pregnancy.
Feeding during the first month of pregnancy should be of the same kind and quality as the bitch has become accustomed. A common mistake is to increase food intake too early in the pregnancy. Any excessive weight gain during this period may lead to possible whelping problems.
So, if the bitch has a good-quality, well-balanced diet there is no reason to change it or administer dietary supplements.
To ensure adequate nutritional status of the bitch prior to breeding, a simple blood test can be done to determine the risk of anemia and the level of blood protein. If necessary, the bitch should be transitioned approximately two weeks prior to breeding to a diet consisting of high-quality and highly digestible meat (30%) and 20% of lipids (fat) mixed with the usual complement, which should contain high amounts of soluble carbohydrates and a low fiber content to avoid hypoglycemia. See also our article about the feeding of the pregnant bitch and the potential benefits and risks of giving dietary supplements to the pregnant bitch.
The correct time to do an ultrasonic scanning to confirm pregnancy is around four weeks. Very few physical changes occur until the fifth week of pregnancy. A blood test done can also be done about the same time, but it should be noted that smaller litters may result in a false negative result. By the fifth week, the nipples and mammary glands swell and darken in color. By the sixth or seventh week, the dam will begin to thicken along the flanks due to the growth of the pups.
Between sixth and seven weeks a pregnant bitch requires additional food to support the growth of the foetuses and milk production to feed the pups after birth. You can start feeding a little extra, increasing the amount of food gradually so that by whelping time she is eating about 1.5 times her maintenance diet. For example, if she is normally fed 400 grams, this should be increased by 100 to 200 grams and divided over two meals. If the bitch is on a quality diet, calcium supplementation is not necessary and may even be detrimental. Therefore, do not exaggerate mineral calcium supply as overdosing may do more harm than good ! Indeed, calcium supplementation during pregnancy does not prevent calcium depletion during lactation (eclampsia) and oversupplementation may actually compound the problem. More about the role of calcium in the diet of the pregnant bitch. If your bitch is accustomed to home-prepared meals, cottage cheese may constitute a good and natural source of calcium and phosphorus. Natural calcium is more easily assimilated by the bitches body. Commercial Premium food specially formulated for pregnancy and lactation already contains the necessary levels of Calcium and Phosphorus. More about the nutritional management of the pregnant bitch and calcium supplementation during pregnancy.
At eight weeks, her meal should be divided into three meals per day so as to avoid bloating and pressure. Omega-3 supplements in the form of a teaspoonful of codliver oil may also be given about three times weekly. If the dam should become constipated, small amounts of mineral oil added to her food may proof useful. During the last week of pregnancy the puppies may take up so much room that the mother may prefer to eat small meals every 3 to 4 hours.
While carrying puppies, the female should of course be given regular exercise, neither too violent nor too prolonged, preferably early in the morning and in the late afternoon during the hot season. It is important that the dam should not become corpulent as a fat, floppy dam is much more likely to experience whelping problems.
From the time she is bred, do not use any flea treatment on her of any kind, as this could have a disastrous effect on the puppies. If the pregnant bitch has fleas, use a flea comb and rub her with alcohol.
A bitch infected with hook or round worms may infect her puppies, so it is a good thing to administer a wormer before mating, or ask your vet for advice on a wormer that is safe to give once your Bulldog is in whelp.
About a week before the estimated date of parturition, the bitch should be introduced to the whelping area and the whelping box. The whelping area should be quiet, secluded, warm and dry.
Following the fifty-ninth day, she should be carefully watched for signs of whelping. The gestation period normally lasts nine weeks, although it may vary from sixty-one to sixty-five days. During the last week of pregnancy the bitch will have to urinate much more often than normal and it is important to let her out more frequently so she can eliminate any excess fluid. She will also appear more nervous or uncomfortable, while she is in fact looking for the right spot to whelp. She may begin vomiting, shivering or panting, and scratch or tear up paper or blankets, trying to nest. Two or three days before the expected day of parturition, the bitch’s temperature should be charted. Approximately 12 to 24 hours before labor begins, the rectal temperature drops from a normal 101.5° F (38.6° C) to 99° F (37° C). The drop in temperature indicates the forthcoming whelping.
Unless an emergency C-section is required, the choice for free-whelping or an elective caesarean should ideally have been made beforehand. There are pros and cons regarding elective caesarean sections versus letting bulldog bitches free-whelp. See also: Caesarean section.
However, the choice ultimately should be made by the owner of the bitch. Whatever the decision, it is always best to take your bitch to the veterinarian at the presumed end of the pregnancy to have her examined and have the puppies checked at the same time. In case a natural delivery is chosen, it is particularly important to have an ultrasound scan made to count the puppies. Knowing how many puppies to expect will tell when the bitch is finished delivering.
As a final remark we would like to add that although the bitch comes into season, on average, every six to eight months, this does not mean that she should be bred at each season ! She should be allowed the time to recover from the effects of the previous pregnancy and whelping. In practice this means she should not be bred more than once a year, as would be the case in nature; in the wild, canine bitches ovulate only once a year. This is especially true if her previous litter was delivered by cesarian section. It is further advisable not to have the bitch undergo a C-section more than three times in her lifetime.
Si es posible intenta que se conozcan y ver si se llevan bien. Nunca hay que descartar una monta natural, especialmente si es un semental con experiencia.
1.- La GESTACION dura en la perra BULLDOG unos 60-63 dÃas, aunque se puede retrasar el momento del parto unos dÃas (o adelantarse).
2.- En la PRIMERA MITAD DE GESTACION, debido al poco crecimiento de los fetos, debe mantenerse a la madre dentro del peso aconsejado para EVITAR LA OBESIDAD.
3.- En la SEGUNDA MITAD DE GESTACION se debe incrementar el aporte calórico, aumentando el número de comidas, con DIETAS ESPECIALES PARA MADRES GESTANTES. Evitar el uso indiscriminado de complementos minerales y vitamÃnicos, si no son recomendados por tu Veterinario ClÃnico.
4.- MANTENER EL EJERCICIO, en la medida de lo posible y que la hembra este dispuesta a realizar sin sobrepasarse, hasta el mismo dÃa del parto.
5.- Ponga en conocimiento de su Veterinario cualquier MEDICACION que este administrando a su perra gestante.
6.- Construir una PARIDERA (caja de madera) y disponer el lugar más adecuado para el parto y post-parto, el cual debe ser un sitio tranquilo, de temperatura estable fuera de la mirada de extraños (vecinos, amigos, curiosos…) y del contacto con otros animales que pueda haber en casa. Este lugar debe permitir a la perra controlar el entorno y relacionarse con la familia cuando lo desee y tener cerca el lugar donde sale a realizar sus deposiciones, asà como agua y comida
Breeds with deep chests and narrow waists such as the Bulldog are susceptible to a syndrome of gastric torsion and bloat, where the stomach fills up with air (dilatation) and rotates on its supporting ligaments (volvulus or torsion), sealing off the blood supply. Once the blood supply is cut off the dog’s conditon begins to deteriorate very rapidly, resulting in a painful death within a very few hours. Read more about bloat or gastric dilatation-volvulus.
English Bulldogs are famous in their own right. In addition to being one of the most popular household pets, they have also been widely featured in movies and television shows. Here is a collection of English Bulldogs known throughout the world.
Butch the Bulldog.
Butch is a Bulldog with a ferocious snarl, big, sharp teeth and sharp studded collar that was first introduced in the Pluto cartoon Bone Trouble in which Pluto tried to steal Butch’s bone. Butch has been antagonizing Pluto ever since then and sometimes vie for the affections of Dinah the Dachshund. Other Disney characters like Minnie Mouse, Morty and Ferdie Fieldmouse, Hunky, Fifi the Peke and Figaro the Kitten are familiar with Butch.
Francis the Bulldog.
Francis is a character in the Disney’s animated feature film Oliver and Company. Francis is a bulldog with a British accent in Fagin’s gang. Fagin is a poor man who lives on a house-boat with his dogs including Francis who appreciates art and theater. Francis doesn’t want to be called Frank or Frankie.
Hector.
Hector, a muscle-bound bulldog is an animated character in the Warner Bros. Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies series. Hector has gray fur, walks pigeon-toed and wears a black collar with silver studs. His usual role in several Tweety and Sylvester series is to protect Tweety from Sylvester, usually at granny’s request.
Spike.
Also from Warner Bros. Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies, Spike is a burly, gray bulldog who wears a red sweater, a brown bowler hat and a perpetual scowl. Spike usually appears with Chester, a small and jumpy terrier with yellow fur and brown, perky ears. Spike and Chester starred in only two films, Tree for Two in 1952 and Dr. Jerkyl’s Hyde in 1954.
Marc Antony.
Marc Antony is a burly dog that usually appears with Pussyfoot. These two are also animated characters in the Warner Bros. Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies. This brown bulldog with tan belly and black ears is utterly devoted to Pussyfoot. Both were first introduced in the 1952 film Feed the Kitty by Chuck Jones and later in Kiss Me Cat (1953), Feline Frame-Up (1954) and Claude Cat later in 1954.
Spike (Tom and Jerry).
Spike, also referred to as Butch or Killer is an animated character from the Tom and Jerry series by William Hanna and Joseph Barbera. Spike made his first appearance in the 1942 Tom and Jerry series Dog Trouble. He disapproves cat but a softie when it comes to mice thus Jerry would often use this characteristic to get Tom in trouble with Spike.
So you see? English Bulldogs are indeed popular, not just as household pets but also as television and movie personalities.
